Immersive Van Gogh

In a rare case of being in the know, while my usual modus operandi is to be a year or two behind, I was able to get tickets to what has fast become the hottest show in town:  Immersive Van Gogh.

I wasn't sure what to expect, or in which ways we would be immersed in Van Gogh's art . . .

And, frankly, neither Van Gogh, nor Impressionists in general are my cup of tea . . .

Though, naturally, I recognize their importance . . .

But the show truly blew me away!

I had never paid close attention to his brush strokes . . . 

Or his frantic use of color . . .

And there were the sunflowers, which I love . . .

And the lovely music, which at one point, inspired a guest to start some yoga poses . . .

The soundtrack was inspired, ranging from classical, to impressionist to the modern French chansons, including the incomparable Edith Piaf and her “ Non, je ne regrette rien. ”

It was marvelous.

Flowers, and music, and bees, oh, my!

And tea!  Oh, my, my!  All from Australia!  Thank you to a dear Facebook friend, Dewita Carson, for this unbelievably thoughtful card and tea bag that have traveled halfway around the world!  Your card reminds me of how much goodness there is in the world, and how worthwhile life is, and how much we should treasure friendships!  You are an angel!

The hydrangeas are from my garden!  We finally got some blooms this year!

The description on the teabag says: "A fruity mango blend with Australian Native Plants and other ingredients that have been recognized to help relax and calm the mind.  This blend is designed to help you focus on the positive aspects of life."  I'll take it!

Dewita enjoys creating multi-media art, like in this card . . .

Always with her audience preferences in mind . . .

Here's to friendship and the land Down Under!

Venetian Memory

If you are at Piazza San Marco, and walk towards the Basilica di San Marco, you will be able to turn right towards the Piazzetta San Marco.  On your left, stands the Doge's Palace, and facing you straight ahead is  the column holding the winged sculpture of St. Mark, and beyond that, the Grand Canal.  When you get to the end of the Piazzetta, if you turn left, you will be walking down Riva degli Schiavoni, and towards the famous Danieli Hotel.  But if you turn right, you will be heading towards the Giardini Reali, the tiny, easy-to-miss Royal Gardens.  The street in front of the gardens is referred to as Giardini Ex Reali (outside the Royal Gardens), and it's congested with souvenir vendors and tourists, snapping up t-shirts, key chains, and postcards.  

In this chaotic environment, artists set up their easels and paint, and sell their art, a lot of it pretty bad.  However, there are also some amazing artists that display their works featuring the easy-to-sell Venetian landscapes.  

On our first trip to Venice, I had spotted the work of Ugo Barraco, an artist that works in mixed media.  However, by the time I ran into him on that first trip, I had already filled my suitcase with Venetian lace from Burano, and couldn't imagine how to get an additional purchase past my husband's eagle eyes, so I let it go with a huge sigh.

I searched for Ugo's stall on this second trip, in October of last year, and found it, at last, close to the Fermata di San Marco, but he wasn't there.  Instead, his very competent — and charming, apprentice, Daniele, relieved me of a few hundred euros and sold me an ink and acqua tincta view of a Venetian canal with the requisite gondola.

I liked this one because of the shadows, with the brilliant sun reflected against the buildings at dusk, exactly as I remember seeing it in Venice.  I was originally looking for a horizontal piece, but Daniele pointed out that Venice was a city meant to be painted vertically because of its narrow canals and myriad palaces crowding the very edges of the water.

Daniele rolled it up, and packed it in a very sturdy tube, and I had it framed here in the U.S.  The frame is gilded, and has an arabesque pattern that seems well-suited to the subject.  It's my new pride and joy.

The Art Institute Crèche

The Art Institute of Chicago this rare Neapolitan Crèche in 2013, but I only found out about it this year.  This is what happens when you let your membership lapse.  Shame on me!

In a bit of serendipity, my son, John, happens to have arrived early for the Christmas holiday, so he tagged along with us.  It was so much fun having him with us!

It was absolutely worth the visit!  So beautiful!  

The figures in the Crèche date from the 18th Century, and all the garments are made of silk, so in order to preserve them, the Crèche is only shown for a few weeks a year around the Christmas holiday.

It includes 50 animals and 41 items of food or drink.  

The details are simply amazing!

This is definitely not a pastoral tableau.

  It is modeled after a busy Neapolitan village.

I could not get a clear shot of the gorgeous baroque cabinet in which it is displayed.  Next year, I'm coming in the middle of the week, and earlier in the day!

I am told that there's another crèche displayed at the Met in New York around the holidays, so now I'm thinking I need to add a trip to the Big Apple at Christmas so I can see it!

Afterwards, we wondered around to see the permanent displays.  It's always a thrill to see my favorites.  Here's the stunning La Grande Jatte (1889) by Seurat.  Being at this wonderful museum, with my son, is the best gift I could have asked for this Christmas.

Venice Again - Day 6

 Random photos from our 5th day in this old, beautiful, incomparable city . . .

Primavera by Lilla Tabasso.  Milano 2019.  Flamed Murano glass, hand-blown and modelled.

Masks for Il Carnavale,

Golden mosaics at the Basilica di San Marco.  We were there at the noon hour when the lights are lit, and the gold mosaics shine as brightly as the sun.  The gold mosaics were, indeed, chosen to represent the light of God.  On our previous visit we explored the basilica at length, so this time we just stopped in to pay our respects to the patriarch of this ancient city.

Marble bench inside the basilica eroded by water.  Acqua Alta has taken its toll on most buildings in Venice.

Gondola ride:  Check.  Last time we rode the gondola at night, so this time we tried a daytime trip.

A charming young artist named Daniele pointed out that Venice is a city meant to be painted vertically.

Daniele is an apprentice in the studio of Ugo Barraco, an artist that works in mixed media, primarily etchings on zinc, and acquatinta.  He helpfully lightened the weight of my wallet. I'll show you what I bought as soon as I have it framed.  Right now, it's sitting at the bottom of our suitcase, safely encased in a cardboard tube.

We had lunch at Hotel Pensione Wildner-Venezia.  Paccheri Pasta with Beef Ragoût au Gratin, for my husband . . .

And Beef Tagliata with seasonal vegetables for me . . .

Bridge of Sighs, connecting the Doge's interrogation rooms in the Palace to the New Prisons.

After another exhausting and wonder-filled day, we turned in for the night.  The days are going by so fast!

Venice Again - Day 4

We decided to keep our daytime activities simple, since we had tickets for the opera at night.  

We decided this was the perfect day to go see the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, across the Grand Canal.

There are many unusual pieces in the collection that left me completely mystified.

I am a true philistine when it comes to modern art.

The Break of Day, Paul Delvaux, 1937.

Seated Woman II, Joan Miró, February1939, Oil on Canvas.

Sphere No. 3, Arnaldo Pomodoro, 1964, Bronze

Seal, Jean Arp.

The Horse, Raymond Duchamp-Villon, 1914, Bronze.  Sometimes, you gotta laugh!

On the way back, we stopped at the church of Santa Maria della Salute, which we had been looking at from across the pond for several days now.

It was actually rather plain on the inside.  I took a few minutes to light a candle for a friend.

We had now worked up an appetite, and it was the perfect time to go back to Harry's.

We ordered their famous, but amazingly overpriced bellinis.  They were very refreshing, though.

My husband ordered the Filet of Sole . . .

I had the Mushroom Risotto, which, in my opinion, is one of the best reasons to come to Venice in the Fall — mushroom season!

Then back on the vaporetto to our hotel for an afternoon nap.

We had to conserve our energy, you see, because we had tickets that night to see The Marriage of Figaro, by Mozart.

La Fenice (the Phoenix) Opera House has burned down to the ground several times . . .

And each time, it gets rebuilt with unparalleled grandeur.

Even the curtain was exquisitely embroidered.

To be sitting in the same theatre where Verdi debuted La Traviata . . . it was pretty special.